衝浪強尼的部落格

15個讓你衝浪進步的方法


大家好

我是強尼

今天強尼幫大家整理了一個網路上說15個讓你衝浪進步的方法

大家繼續靈魂衝浪唷
　

1. Be a skater   當一個玩滑板的人


Getting a skating mindset and practising certain moves

over and over again is a good way to learn airs.


For turns, it’s still repetition, but it’s more about going

out and learning how to read waves and adapt to them.

玩滑板吧，透過滑板一遍又一遍的練習。甚至練習Air

但是最重要的還是出門學習如何判斷浪況，閱讀浪型



John John滑板也是很屌的呢

2. Feel the turn   感覺轉彎


Don’t analyze manoeuvres too closely.

There’s so many things in surfing that can’t be taught. It’

s all just feeling. It’s riding every different kind of wave and surfing every day.




不要很仔細的分析衝浪的感覺

衝浪上面有很多事情事無法用教學的

一切都在於感覺它

畢竟每天的浪況以及浪型都不一樣


　

3. Find a pusher  找到一個可以推動你進步的人



Surf with people better than you. This relates to anything.

It’ll always help you progress. But, don’t let it defeat you and make you bummed out.


和比你厲害的人一起衝浪

它永遠會幫助你更進步

但是千萬不要讓它打敗你

讓你不想衝浪

(意思應該是比你強的人有時候會強很多，這時候也不要洩氣)



　

4. Humiliate yourself  羞辱你自己


As confronting as it can be, watch footage of yourself at least once a month.

 I feel that this has to be the best way to learn. You can compare it to your favourite surfers,

see what they have that you’re lacking, see where you can improve. Even for me, now,

I’ll go and have a surf and feel like I was ripping, then I’m bummed out on the footage.

 Or I’ll think I’m having a shocker and the footage makes it look good.

Think about what looked good, how it felt and how to do that again.



如果可以的話一個月最好看自己的錄像一次

我覺得那是最容易進步的方式

你可以將自己跟你喜歡的Surfer做比較

看看你自己哪裡可以再修改


　

5. Join a club  加入一個衝浪俱樂部


This doesn’t work for everyone. If you’re naturally competitive and like the pressure,

it helps your surfing a lot because you’ll try crazier

stuff and put yourself in positions that you wouldn’t put yourself in when freesurfing.

There’s also people who don’t like competing and crack under pressure.

But, if you like the pressure, you’re guaranteed to push your surfing to another level.


雖然這個方式不是對每個人都有效

如果你天生是個競爭者，有企圖心，喜歡壓力。

這是讓你進步的方式

會推向你上另一個層面

6. Be a groupie  當個追星族

Freesurf near WT or prime events whenever you can so you can watch pros in the water.

Growing up, I loved any chance I had to be around those guys or to watch a contest.

Back then, I wasn’t thinking so much about learning,

it was more about the experience of seeing those guys.

 But, looking back now, there’s guys who you’d watch in movies then see in real life and

you realise there’s a difference because all the bad stuff gets chopped out in a movie.

It definitely helps your confidence, knowing that. I remember when I was a grom

I watched Kelly Slater in Black and White relentlessly with my brothers and

 I was convinced that Kelly didn’t fall off.

　

文中說多看這一些明星選手衝浪可以學習他們的經驗

強尼的部份通常是瘋狂看比賽以及影片

不過並不是故意的，強尼是一有空就會一直看比賽重播以及影片的人

因為爽，而且應該是狂熱吧。

狂熱和努力不同的地方是

一天工作14個小時，你很努力

但是狂熱一天有34小時都不夠用

也就是這個部落格誕生的原因

7. Don’t be proud  別驕傲



It ain’t easy but it helps if you ask better surfers how they

nail their tricks and what techniques they use.

That is, if you have the right relationship with that person.

If I surf with someone and get along with them

 I’ll happily ask how to do things. Sometimes,

 I get asked myself and I’m more than happy to share what I know.


雖然詢問比你會衝浪的人他的技巧怎麼做出來通常會害怕會害羞，

而且除非你和那個人有不錯的朋友關係否則不是很容易開口

不過筆者很喜歡問別人如何辦到的，因為筆者覺得可以教學別人

自己懂的部份他覺得很開心


　

8. No crazy eyes  不要瘋狂之眼



Don’t try and get in the zone in the water.

I feel that it never helps when you free surf.

When you go freesurfing you need to take it as a new experience and not put pressure on it.

 The coolest stuff happens when you’re having fun.

Go out with an open attitude.

 If you’re having a good time and not worrying about falling off,

it reflects in the way your session goes. If you paddle out going,

“I’ve gotta do the sickest air,”

you tend to get pissed off and never achieve it.


意思強尼不是很確定

但是強尼看整體意思應該是

有時候我們下水會想說

我今天要做出一個瘋狂的 Air或是什麼動作之類的

但是一直沒做出來就會生氣，而且也會一直做不出來

衝浪應該開心就好，而且不是所有浪型都適合某些動作的




　

9. Bubba steps  布巴步驟

Know that sometimes less is more.

 The hardest thing for someone learning is the fact that they wanna do

things the way they see them straight away, instead of taking the baby steps

that the guy who can do it has taken over the years. When you see the best guys in

movies do something, you forget they’ve chopped out the 800 that weren’t made or

didn’t look as cool. You can’t worry about how it looks, you need to realise there’s

 steps to take before you get to that point. When you’re learning finners,

you won’t do one like Reynolds where you hit the lip vertically and go inverted.

You’ve gotta start doing little horizontal slides. You’ve gotta start basic.



有時候越少就是越多

所有事情都有他的進步步驟

有一些人可能會覺得她想跳過一些簡單的基礎

直接挑戰後面的部份

(比方說新手連看浪，做浪板都無法好好執行的狀態下就想衝短板)

循序漸進，學習好基礎才是重點

　

10. Know your surfboards   了解你自己的衝浪板


Learn to pick boards that suit conditions.

Progressing has a lot to do with having fun.

It’s silly to ride a high-performance shortboard when it’s

two-foot and weak, when you could be on a fish and getting all sorts

of speed to do airs. You can’t force a situation.

There’s a board for every condition.

There’s so many options with shapes, rockers, fins, fin systems.

It’s endless. If you’re bored with something, try something different.


學習以自己的能力挑選適合當下浪況的板型這樣才能夠愉快的衝浪

如果在只有膝蓋高的浪挑選了高性能的短板是一件很蠢的事

衝浪板有很多需要學習的地方

比方說板型,rockers Fin,系統 ,等等，你可以嘗試更多組合在不同的浪況之中



　

11. Know your mood  了解你自己的心情



Your surf can be dictated by your mood.

 If you’re super amped-up on coffee and wanna go out and

 do a million of the sickest turns or biggest airs, you’re gonna

go and try it. Not to say you’re gonna do it, but you’ll at  least

 have the energy to try. There’s also times when you just wanna cruise and trim.

 The mood’s set before you paddle out.


在你游出外海之前你的心情已經決定了

如果你今天想要嘗試很瘋狂的air或是carve

所以在衝浪之前可以先好好整理一下你自己的心情


　

 

12. You can do anything   你可以做到任何事



View a trick as achievable. Everything takes a certain type of wave.

There’ll be things that you think are unachievable until one day you surf a wave

 that’s perfect for that trick. Then you try it and go, wow, it is achievable.

You get that little bit of inspiration and then you know what to go for

 when those conditions are right. Say a rodeo is something you’d love to do.

If you always surf fat waves, you’re never going to get the opportunity to try it,

and you’re going to think it’s unachievable.

It’s about knowing waves and knowing what to try in what conditions.



在這一段中敘述了每一種浪型都有適合的動作

有時候你覺得某些動作都無法完成

但是某一天浪型對了你可能就成功了

最重要的就是你要在對的浪型上做相呼應的動作

如果你總是衝厚厚偏緩的浪你就沒有機會去嘗試某一些動作

衝浪動作一切都是要建構於你對於浪型的了解




　

13. Waves are teachers   浪就是你的老師


There’s something to learn from every wave.

If you grow up on a beachbreak you’re gonna surf different conditions 365 days a year.

 But if you grow up somewhere like the Gold Coast with long point breaks,

you definitely have an advantage of being a local and knowing the wave inside out.

 Beachbreaks are always a tough one,

but they’re also a good thing because you learn to adapt

to every different condition. There’s a positive to everything.




每一道浪都有可以教導你的東西

如果你是長期在沙灘地形的浪點，你一年365天可能都在衝不一樣的浪型

不過你要是長期在類似黃金海岸的定點起浪點衝浪

你一定有LOCAL的基本常識的優勢知道如何從這邊的inside到outside

沙灘浪點通常都比較硬，因為假如浪大的時候浪頭比較容易跑來跑去

不過他也有很棒的好處就是讓你學習如何快速的適應

不管在任何情況，保持好積極的的方式面對所有情況



　

14. Get a crazy pal  找一個瘋狂的同伴


Find a friend who you can push you in big waves.

You definitely need someone to push you and if they’re around the same age,

even better. It’s a huge motivation.

This applies to all waves, really. If you’ve

got someone that’s a similar ability and age, it always brings out the best in you.


找到一個可以逼你或是迫使你下大浪的朋友

你一定可以同年紀甚至更大並且可以強迫你進步的朋友

若是有的話的話對您當然是最好


　

15. Get competitive  競爭吧


Recognise your competitiveness and play to your strength.

Competitiveness isn’t something you can force. Everyone’s

competitive to an extent, but it’s the people who aren’t afraid

 of losing or looking silly who learn the most. There’s always people

 who are too worried about how they’d look if they lost.

Guys like Craig Anderson aren’t competitive in a contest sense, but they’re

 competitive in the sense that they wanna do a bigger air or get more barrels,

and bring out the best movie part. You’ve gotta push your surfing when you’re

filming those movie sections. Competitiveness is always there, just in different forms.



強尼解釋為"參加比賽吧"

有競爭的心情可以加強你的心靈層面強度

也會培養你的力量對抗任何事情

有時候人們總是會在意自己比賽輸掉看起來有多蠢

但是請不用擔心

競爭吧



今天介紹就到這邊

有機會我們海上見

別忘了見面讓強尼三道先